Posts Tagged ‘shower’

Relationship Based Services

I recently received this comment / question from a reader:

Great services that you provided for installing a new shower door. But I have one question for you. Do you service for repairing purposes?

-Sharon Reams

Thanks for your question, Sharon. We have been blessed with many, many local customers. Although we do provide repair services, we only provide these services to existing customers. As a licensed California C-17 Glazing Contractor I am able to do any type of work that falls within my area of expertise. That includes commercial as well as residential glass projects. Windows, glass doors, storefronts, handrails, aluminum panels (and other architectural metals), mirrors, painted glass panels, restroom partitions, glass office dividers, and more.

Our decision to specialize in shower doors and enclosures has been a good one. It has allowed us to become very proficient in providing very high quality products, and to turn them around quickly. As a result, we have become the undisputed champions in shower enclosure design, manufacture, and installation in the Santa Cruz County area. We have customers with multiple homes in the area that we have been working with for many years.  That is not to mention the many quality general contractors and home builders that we work with on a regular basis.

We are more interested in the relationship we have with our customers than the specific work that we do for them. Once we are doing business with a customer, we are available to do whatever is needed to meet all of their glass project needs. We are in this for the long haul, and building relationships with our customers has been the number one secret to our success so far. We offer an online frameless shower enclosure quote to anyone who is interested, free of charge. Just follow this link:



Silicone as a Glass Bonding Agent

Hi Chris,

Our frameless L shaped shower has a glass brace fitted above the section which has the door. They have attached this to the glass uprights with silicon. Is this strong enough or are you supposed to use a glass bonding agent?

Best wishes,

Mike and Gail

glue-01 glue-02

Dear Mike and Gail,

Silicone is actually one of the best bonding agents available for glass. It is used in many commercial applications where it is the primary structural fastener in those systems. The ability of silicone to stretch and compress makes it the ideal sealant and adhesive for glass. We all know that glass is unforgiving in nature. It doesn’t want to bend, stretch, or compress. Silicone helps to make up for this.

The down side to using silicone as an adhesive is that it takes a long time to cure (about 24 hours). It’s also a bit messy to work with, and not very easy to clean up. If I need to glue something in a hurry, I will use a different adhesive, but I prefer silicone to anything else. I don’t think you have anything to worry about.

Have a great day!


Shower Glass De-lamination


Your help with this issue could save me a lot of time and money.

We remodeled our bathroom over a year ago and had a frameless glass shower unit installed.

Following the installers advise, we applied Rain-X to the glass before using the unit. Over a short period of time, we noticed a checker-board pattern appear between the double pane glass when using a hot water shower. This progressed with the appearance of water spots between the panes. We reported the problem to the installer and they came and replaced the glass partitions. The installer told us this time to use glass cleaner containing Rain-X before using the shower, which I did. Within a short period of time the same issue returned. The installer instructed us to use a buffing pad to remove the spots. That didn’t work so I wanted to completely rule out hard water spots on the surface of the glass and cleaned with a lemon juice- vinegar/baking soda-vinegar/water protocol. The surface of the glass sparkled but did not remove the water spots.

I believe this to be material and/or installation defect that allowed moisture to collect between the double pane glass resulting in the checker-board appearance following a hot shower and the subsequent appearance of water spots, none of which is on the surface. Unfortunately, we may have waited too long for another warranty replacement while pursuing installer recommendations to remove ” hard water spots”. Bottom line,something has to be done as it is getting worse.

How do you suggest we proceed and how do we prevent this from occurring again on the next glass replacement?


Rob Hailes

glass delamination glass delamination

Hi Rob,

Laminated glass is basically two pieces of glass that are laminated together with clear plastic. It is impossible to tell this by looking straight through the glass with the naked eye. This is the type of glass that is used in the windshield of your car. It is a type of safety glass, and meets code for showers (unless the local authority having jurisdiction says otherwise).

The problem is that the manufacturer and supplier of the glass will not give you a warranty for use in a shower enclosure. The edges of the laminated glass need to be protected from being exposed to water directly, like in the case of a frameless shower enclosure. These panels will normally work out fine when the edges are captured (framed), but when the edges are exposed they are vulnerable to what is known as “delamination.” The glass begins to pull away from the plastic lamination and vice-versa.

Without seeing your glass, that is what I am guessing is happening in your situation. The solution is to replace the laminated glass with tempered.

I hope this helps,


RE: Glass Shower Doors and Surface Treatments


I happened upon your blog and am very impressed with the wealth of information there!

I just had a new shower enclosure (corner) put in, and am wondering whether it is necessary to treat the glass with some kind of sealant. The prior glass would get cloudy pretty quickly (I’m not sure whether our water is “hard”, or it was soap residue) and I found myself cleaning it every week, which was sometimes difficult to do since the only way I could get it really clean was to use a scour pad (non-scratch, of course!).

I saw on your blog that you recommend the “Liquid Diamond” product, but am not sure which one to order for my needs. Can you help? And, can you tell me whether this product needs to be reapplied, or how it is maintained?

Thank you so much for your time! (I am located in New York City).



Hi Miriam,

It’s a good idea to use some type of product to protect your shower glass. Nothing will prevent water spots from forming on glass, but you can prevent water stains from ruining your shower door. There are a couple of different options available. You can purchase “Rain-X” or a similar product and apply it yourself. My experience is that this type of product needs to be reapplied every few months. The great thing about the Liquid Diamonds product from Diamond Seal Systems is that it doesn’t require regular applications. The maintenance is pretty simple, and primarily consists of refraining from using harsh cleaners. If properly cared for, the Diamond Seal treatment will never need to be reapplied. There is probably a certified installer in your area.

Thanks for reading the blog,

Chris Phillips – Owner

Showcase Shower Door – CCL #957120
1970 17th Avenue #C – Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Phone: (831) 464-3899 – FAX: (831) 477-0760

No Weep Holes?

Hi, Chris.

We had one of our baths redone a few years ago but the apartment has been empty ever since as we were away from the country. A the time,  a frameless door was installed and we never thought about looking for weep holes on the track until now that we found your blog. The shower has never been used so we don’t know if water would collect on the track.

Our question: Is there such a thing as a shower door track without weep holes? The photos show –instead of a conventional channel– a sloped, low lip on the side of the pan with no room for holes even if we wanted to drill some. Our guess was that, with this type of slanted lip, weep holes are not needed as water will just slide down onto the pan. We also checked if the track has been installed with the wrong side facing the pan but we failed to find weep holes on the other side as well.

Your clarification will be greatly appreciated. All the best to you.





Hi Diana,

Great question! Actually, this type of shower enclosure doesn’t require holes in the frame in order for the water to weep. The “L” shape of the bottom sill allows the water to run off back into the shower. As a rule, the sill is caulked on the outside only, or the inside is only partially caulked. This allows water the finds its way under the sill to escape, or at least dry out over time.

Thanks for reading the blog!


Using concrete anchors in shower door installations

Hey Chris,

Found your blog online – perhaps you can help… We’re looking into getting a frameless 36″ shower door (67-68″ high), because we dislike the look of a panel. We have one company telling us they can do it with hinges that hold up to 110 lbs, no stud needed, another saying they’ll only do it if there is a stud where the door goes in, and a third saying they just won’t do it. Who is right on this one?  The ones who said they don’t need studs calculated the weight of the door to be 85 lbs.




Hi Tal,

It is always good to have a stud to anchor into… that rarely happens, though… There are a number of different types of anchors that can be used in a tile wall to secure the hinges properly, providing there is something solid behind the tile. Cement board (also known as HardieBacker or DUROCK) will easily support the weight of your shower door. It is just a matter of using the proper screws and anchors. We generally use #10 screws (the ones supplied by the hinge manufacturer) and concrete anchors. I haven’t had an issue with this combination in any of the shower enclosures that I have installed.

Thanks for writing,


Showcase Shower Door – CCL #957120
1970 17th Avenue #C – Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Phone: (831) 464-3899 – FAX: (831) 477-0760

Using Laser Levels for Shower Layouts

Hello Chris,

My name is Dan, my wife Holli and I own a glass shop in Anchorage AK you can visit our website at we have enjoyed your blog and your story. we started our shop in 1991 doing anything in glass including vinyl windows and auto glass. In recent years due to shortages in qualified help and price slashing with competitors and the overall grind of that type of business we did something similar to you and streamlined our business to just her and I doing custom Showers, tabletops, back-splashes, custom glass basically anything indoors for obvious reasons and we really enjoy it. To the point we really have focused on the shower doors and noticed a reference to laser levels in you blog we are trying to get info on the best type to use for meas and install I am currently looking at a Bosch GLL3-80 I wondered if you had any insight on the best types w/wo tripod and applications with respect to things like no-angles and step ups. A distant colleague looking for a step up.

Thank you

Dan DeLucia

Owner – Aurora Glass

red line

Hi Dan,

I first started using a laser level six or seven years ago. I found something that was pretty affordable (around $200) that worked well for me. It was a Craftsman self-leveling laser that came with a tripod. It shoots your choice of a level line, plumb line, plumb/level cross hair, and a cross hair that is not self leveling (actually helpful in some situations.) I still have that level to this day, and have actually purchased a second one within the past year. The cost of these has actually come down since I bought the first one, but it is a good, rugged, and inexpensive device.

I’m sure the one that you are looking at (or have probably bought by now) is at lease as good. As you know, a straight line is better than a plumb line in most instances. A customer will rarely put a level on your work to check it, but will always look at the lines and reveals. That is the thing that makes using a laser so nice. Even if it gets out of calibration over time, you know that the line it shoots is perfectly straight. The cross-hair feature is awesome for laying out mirrors. In the old days, we would take a level and draw a plumb/level intersection on the wall to do a layout. This is really only necessary when all four corners are out-of-square. With this laser, there is no need to mark. You just project the intersection on the wall and measure to the lines. Very nice!

Thanks for writing, and best of luck with your enterprises.